Re: [CH] Scaling spices

Gilles Bureau (gbureau@mtq.gouv.qc.ca)
Wed, 21 Jan 1998 13:34:04 -0500

At 22:11 98-01-20 -0800, Kit Anderson wrote:
>The was a posting a few months ago about scaling spices in recipes. Does
>anyone have that?
>-- 
>Kit Anderson				ICQ# 2242257
>Bath, Maine				<kitridge@bigfoot.com>
>		got beer?
>
>
>
>

I hope this is what you want.

Objet: 
             Spices: History, Scaling, and Storing, LONG POST
 Renvoyé-Date: 
             Sun, 19 Oct 1997 17:46:15 -0700
  Renvoyé-De: 
             bbq@listserv.azstarnet.com
       la date: 
             Sun, 19 Oct 1997 19:43:20 -0500
          De: 
             Glenn Manning <gmanning@ionet.net>
   Répondre-A: 
             bbq@listserv.azstarnet.com
           A: 
             bbq@listserv.azstarnet.com




I found this on the Home Hearth Food Digest and thought it was worth
sharing. It was originally posted by "Jazzbel" <jazzbel@grouper.batelnet.bs>
from the McCormick Page at:
 http://www.mccormick.com/

Glenn Manning

-----

HISTORY:

The use of herbs probably began accidentally when a caveman wrapped meat in
the leaves of a nearby bush. To his surprise, he discovered this enhanced
the taste of the meat, as did certain nuts, seeds, berries - and even bark.

In ancient times, spices and herbs were also used as a way to mask the
often unpleasant taste and odor of food. Because there were so few ways to
keep food fresh, the value of spices to Europeans in the late Middle Ages
grew to a point that can hardly be imagined today. A handful of cardamom
was worth as much as a poor man's yearly wages, and many slaves were bought
and sold for a few handfuls of peppercorns.

Arab traders were the first to introduce spices into Europe. Realizing that
they controlled a commodity in great demand, the traders kept their sources
of supply secret and made up fantastic tales of the dangers involved in
obtaining spices.

However, when it became known that the true sources of these precious
spices and herbs were in Asia and India, world exploration began in
earnest. Not only did Columbus, Magellan, and others claim the lands they
"discovered" for their sovereigns, but their ships brought back to Europe
samples of plants, fruit, seeds, spices, and "flavorings" they found.

Once the sources of supply were identified, the major powers set up
monopolies trading in these commodities. Often the country with the
strongest navy was able to gain control of the areas where spices
originated. The Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch, and British empires all enjoyed
leading roles for a time. In fact, the last of these great spice
monopolies, the Dutch, remained in existence until the outbreak of World
War II.

With the discovery of the Caribbean Islands and Central America, new spices
were added to the world's cuisine, notably red pepper, vanilla, and
allspice. Some of these became extremely popular in Europe, and then,
centuries later, were reintroduced in the United States by immigrants.

The popularity of spices during the entire period of European expansion,
from the 15th to the 18th centuries, cannot be exaggerated. Spice cookery
reached extremes of complexity, especially in puddings and meat dishes, and
the combinations of spices used might seem strange to modern palates. Hot
spices from the Orient, such as pepper, ginger, and cloves, were frequently
mixed with native flavors such as fennel and coriander. Sweet seasonings,
such as anise, nutmeg, and mint, were often added for good measure. These
were the staple seasonings of the Renaissance diet. These same seasonings
have survived in many different combinations and are widely used in spice
cookery today.

As the Arab monopoly of the spice trade declined, the great colonizing
nations of Europe fought for supremacy. At first, the Portuguese and
Spanish, whose sea captains and navigators were supreme early voyagers,
enjoyed virtual dominion over the spice trade. Their sphere of influence
extended into India and Burma and even the Philippines. In 1493, Pope
Alexander VI divided the New World between Spain and Portugal. In the
1500s, Spain was the dominant spice merchant; then England and Holland
successfully challenged her.

In the late 17th century, America benefited indirectly from the spice
trade. Boston-born Elihu Yale grew up in England, where he worked as a
clerk for the British East India Company, which held a monopoly on all
trade with India. The company's ships brought the first cargo of nutmeg and
cloves from the Moluccas in Indonesia. Yale eventually became governor of
Madras, India, and his spice fortune helped endow Yale University.

In the late 18th and early 19th centuries, Americans became directly
involved in the spice trade as the sleek clipper ships of New England began
to dominate world trade. So many pepper voyages were undertaken from New
England to Sumatra that the price of pepper dropped to less than three
cents a pound in 1843, a disastrous slump that affected many aspects of
American business. Ultimately, the New England spice trade fell off sharply
when piracy in the Java and China Seas made long voyages for pepper too
dangerous. Meanwhile, the American spice business, like the rest of the
country, was moving west. In 1835, American settlers in Texas developed
chili powder by combining various ground red peppers from Mexico, thus
adding new dimensions to American taste. Later, once the gold rush had
subsided, herbs were grown commercially in California. Mustard seed was
grown in North Dakota, Montana, and Canada's prairie provinces.

Our cuisine has great variety because America was settled by people from
many nations who, in their native lands, enjoyed distinctively spiced
dishes. The move to America often made it difficult for immigrants to
obtain their favorite flavoring materials. At the same time, the different,
more plentiful supply of food eliminated some of the need for heavy
spicing. And many times, the newer generation - to its own loss -
deliberately tried to depart from the traditional dishes of the old
country. Only in recent times has the increase in international travel
created a vogue for food seasoned with spices from all over the world.

The spice trade has changed over the years. In some cases, the prices and
production of spices are controlled by native governments or groups of
growers. Travel, however, is still an integral part of the business of
McCormick spice procurement. In an average year, our buyers travel hundreds
of thousands of miles in search of information about the quality of various
herbs and spices and to track political and climatic conditions that might
disrupt usual sources of supply.

Weather historically has had an impact on crop size, quality, and price.
The life cycle of spices and herbs, from initial planting to harvesting,
can be as little as three months for most herbs to as long as six to eight
years for some tree spices. Typically, allspice, nutmeg, and cloves can be
harvested between six and eight years after planting. Vanilla and pepper
vines take three years to mature. If a storm destroys a portion of existing
plantations, years of shortages, coupled with price increases, can follow.

In the 20th century, another problem has gained major importance. Political
upheavals, such as the Communist takeover of Vietnam, can restrict sources
of supply. This was of major importance because Vietnamese cassia
(cinnamon) is considered among the world's finest. Indonesia is another
significant source. 

Iran was the premier supplier of cumin seed before the Islamic revolution.
Again, political conditions made this source temporarily unavailable. India
and Turkey have picked up most of the cumin seed business once held by
Iran. These pressures, both national and political, make alternate sources
of supply as critical today as they were to the early explorers.

Today, with spice use so prevalent and the cost relatively low, it is hard
to imagine that these fragrant bits of leaves, seeds, and bark were once so
coveted and costly. For centuries wars were waged, new lands discovered,
and the earth circled, all in the quest of spices. Below is a brief
chronological listing that provides a "flavor" of the influence spices have
had on history. 

SCALING:

Foodservice kitchens often need to scale up small-sized recipes to large
quantity proportions. Most ingredients can be increased in direct relation
to the total recipe increase. However, spices need special attention as the
flavor of certain spices intensifies as the build-up increases.
Experimentation and testing are the keys to success in increasing spices in
the proper proportions but there are some tips which can serve as a
starting point.

•The tropical spices (black pepper, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, cloves; but
not nutmeg and mace) can usually be increased proportionately - double the
recipe, double the spice. This must be done accurately, however, measuring
by weight and not by volume. This applies to such blends as curry and chili
powders and apple and pumpkin pie spices, but not Italian seasoning.
Nutmeg, mace, and Italian seasoning use the following herb formula.

•For the first 100% increase in portions, herbs can also be doubled. After
that, for each multiple of the original recipe, add only half the original
amount of herbs. For example, a recipe for 10 using 1 tablespoon basil (3.3
gr.) scaled up to 100 portions: 20 portions = 2 tablespoons basil (6.6 g.);
the remaining 80 portions = 8 x 1/2 tablespoon (1.65 g.) = 4 tablespoons
basil (13.2 g.); 100 portions total = 2 + 4, or 6 tablespoons basil (19.8
g.).

•Hot red pepper builds up even more quickly than the herbs. For the first
doubling of the recipe, the red pepper can still be doubled. After that,
however, use only 1/4 the original amount of pepper for each multiple of
the original recipe. To increase from 10 to 100 portions when 1/4 teaspoon
red pepper (.525 g.) was used for 10 portions: 20 portions = 1/2 teaspoon
red pepper (1.05 g.); the remaining 80 portions = 8 x 1/16 teaspoon, or 1/2
teaspoon (1.05 g.); 100 portions total = 1 teaspoon red pepper (2.1 g.).

STORING:

Spices & Herbs will keep for a long time if they are stored in airtight
containers, away from heat, moisture and light. The shelf life of properly
stored Spices & Herbs is approximately five years for whole spices, one to
two years for ground spices and six months to one year for leafy herbs.

Members of the red pepper family (capsicums), such as paprika and chili
powder, should be refrigerated to help retain color, and guard against
infestation. This is important especially during the summer months and in
particularly hot climates.

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
WHERE SHOULD I STORE SPICES & HERBS?

Spices and Herbs should be stored in airtight containers away from heat,
moisture, and direct sunlight. These elements hasten the loss of the flavor
and aroma. Therefore, avoid storing your spices and herbs over the stove,
dishwasher, sink or near a window.

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
HOW DO I KNOW IF SPICES & HERBS ARE FRESH?

There are three checks to use, when verifying freshness - look, smell and
taste. A visual check for color fading is a good indicator of flavor loss.
Taste and smell your spices and herbs; if a fresh, characteristic odor or
taste is not apparent, then replace them. 

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
DO SPICES & HERBS SPOIL?

Spices & Herbs do not spoil but they do lose their strength. Old and weak
seasonings will not deliver the taste they should. Here are some handling
tips which will help preserve their flavors longer.

*Replace the lid on bottles right after use.
*Do not sprinkle spices and herbs directly from the bottle over a steaming
pot. Steam introduced into a bottle will hasten the loss of flavor and
aromas. Steam will also result in caking. Measure seasonings in a bowl,
then add seasonings to pot.
*Make sure your measuring spoon is completely dry when you dip it into the
bottle. Moisture introduced into the bottle will also result in
deterioration of contents.

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
CAN I FREEZE SPICES & HERBS?

Freezing does not extend the shelf life of dried Spices & Herbs. Moreover,
if Spices & Herbs are stored in the freezer and are repeatedly removed for
use, condensation may form in the bottles and accelerate loss of flavor and
aroma.

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
WHAT IS THE NUTRITIONAL VALUE OF SPICES & HERBS?

Generally, spices and herbs have no nutritional significance. Therefore,
the NUTRITIONAL FACTS panel does not appear on the label. An exception to
this is Paprika and Chili Powders. They contain Vitamin A and do have a
nutrition label. Seasoning Blends also have a nutrition label as they may
contain other ingredients that contribute to nutrition, such as sodium. 

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
HOW DO I READ DATE CODES ON THE PACKAGE?

Locate the four digit number on the bottom of the spice package or the back
of the extract bottle. On foil packages, this number can be found around
the outside edge of the package. This number is the date of manufacture.
Assume the number is 0310. To obtain the year add 5 to the first digit (0+5
= 5) so 1995 is the year of manufacture. For the month and day divide the
last three digits by 50 (310 - 50 = 6 with 10 remaining). The 6 indicates
the number of complete months before the production month, January,
February, March, April, May, and June. July is the month of production and
the remaining 10 is the day of the month. Code 0310 was produced July 10,
1995. 

If this seems to complicated, a quick way to estimate is to add 5 to the
first digit for the year the product was made. The remaining 3 digits
represent the month, increasing as the year increases.

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
GENERAL SHELF LIFE INFORMATION:


SPICES
   Ground spices.................1-2 yrs
   Whole spices....................5 yrs
HERBS
   Green Leafy..................6mo-1 yr
SEEDS............................1-2 yrs
EXTRACTS...........................4 yrs
SEASONING BLENDS*..................2 yrs
CAKE MATE ICINGS...................18 mo
FOIL PRODUCTS*..................18-24 mo



*Products containing ingredients such as chicken fat, butter, cheese,
lemon, wine, and seeds such as poppy, and sesame may have a shorter shelf
life.

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
OTHER HELPFUL INFORMATION:
A few facts we have gathered from frequently asked questions.



•Chili powder is a blend of spices such as cumin, oregano, garlic and chili
peppers with salt added to round the flavors.

•The brilliant red powder, paprika, is the "garnish spice" contributing
color and sweet pepper flavor. it comes from the pepper family that ranges
from sweet bell peppers to the very hottest of chilies.

•Nutmeg and mace are unique in that they come from the same fruit. Mace is
the lacy covering of the Nutmeg which is the seed of the fruit.

•There are nearly 100 varieties of thyme differing widely in appearance,
aromas and flavors. The spice trade deals almost entirely with the sweet or
garden thyme that comes from Southern Europe.

•Thyme is pungent and sweetly fragrant. It is a traditional ingredient in
New England clam chowder and much of Creole cooking.

•Dry mustard is a blend of yellow and brown mustard seed. The husk of the
seed is removed and the heart of the seed if finely ground to produce it.

•The spice ginger comes only from the dried roots of the ginger plant.
Native to Southeast Asia, the plant is dug up and the roots are dried and
ground to give us ground Ginger.

•Curry powder is not a single spice but a blend of many spices. It is one
of the oldest spice blends, originating in India, designed to give the
characteristic flavor of Indian curry cookery.

•Sage comes in whole, rubbed (crushed) and ground form. Rubbed sage has a
fluffy consistency as opposed to the fine powder of ground sage.

•Marjoram is an herb from the Mediterranean Basin. It has a sweet-minty
herb flavor, similar to oregano.

•Dill weed is the leaf of the dill plant which is part of the parsley
family. It is bright green and selected from the finest of the California
crop.

•Broiled Steak Seasoning is a unique blend of seasonings including black
pepper, onion, garlic, paprika and celery seed. Especially good flavor with
beef as well as pork and lamb.

•Whole Mixed Pickling Spice is a blend of whole and broken spices, herbs
and seeds. In it you find cinnamon, allspice, mustard seed, coriander, bay
leaves, ginger, chilies, black pepper, mace and cardamom.

•Italian Seasoning is a blend of marjoram, thyme, rosemary, savory, sage,
oregano and basil. Add to dip, herb breads and any tomato dish.

•Chili powder is a blend of spices such as cumin, oregano, garlic and chili
peppers with salt added to round out the flavors. The chili peppers are
grown in California, New Mexico and Mexico.

•Garlic powder comes from fresh garlic cloves which have been sliced and
dried. 1/2 tsp. of garlic powder equals 1 clove fresh garlic.

•The manufacture of vanilla extract begins with the vanilla bean of the
orchid plant. The bean is dried and cured to develop flavor and then
processed to produce the extract


--------------------




  _   _    Souriez, la vie est belle!
  ~   ~    
    }      Gilles   "gbureau@mtq.qouv.qc.ca"
 \____/    Ste-Catherine-de-la-Jacques-Cartier, Quebec