Chic chipotles add smoky heat By CATHY THOMAS The Orange County Register No wonder chipotle chilies are chic. Their deep, rounded heat leaves a subtle smoky finish on the palate. A hint of smokehouse bacon without the fat. Some foodies taste the whisper of chocolate in chipotles (chih-POHT-lays). They breathe soul into soup. Turn meatloaf into heat loaf. Are an instant cure for bean, beef or broccoli boredom. Chipotles -- red-ripened jalapeņos that have been smoked and dried -- are sold canned in adobo sauce or in dry form packaged in small cellophane bags. Canned chipotles are the easiest to find. They're sold at Hispanic markets, specialty shops and some supermarkets. The cans are small, usually about 7 ounces, crammed with as many as 18 chipotles swimming in adobo, a puree of tomatoes, onions, vinegar and spices. Most recipes call for one or two, not a whole canful. So, rather than waste one precious chili (and to save a lot of time in future recipes), I remove them all with a fork, leaving a thin layer of adobo on each. I pop them in a mini-food processor (or blender) and puree them (most recipes call for chipotles to be finely chopped or pureed). One chipotle covered with sauce makes about 1 1/2 teaspoons of puree. I freeze the chipotle puree in one-tablespoon mounds on a cookie sheet and store them in a zipper-style plastic bag. They're ready when I need them. If I need less than a tablespoon, I cut off that portion and return the rest to the freezer. Dried chipotles are harder to find. Two good mail-order sources are Melissa's World Variety Produce (1-800-588-0151) and Santa Fe Cooking School (1-800-982-4688). To reconstitute, remove the stems and place the chipotles in a saucepan with water to generously cover. Bring to a boil; remove from heat and allow to soak for 20 to 30 minutes or until tender; puree or finely chop. Here are just a few ways to use chipotles. Remember, start with a small amount. Then taste and add more to suit your lust for sizzle and smoke. Chipotle, corn and shrimp soup: A beat-the-clock soup that tastes like it took hours to prepare. In a large pot, combine three cups nonfat milk, two baking potatoes (peeled and diced), one teaspoon pureed chipotles and two 15-ounce cans creamed corn. Simmer until potatoes are fork-tender, 12-14 minutes. Add 1 pound peeled and deveined shrimp and cook two minutes. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Dip that smokes: Add a dab of pureed chipotles to guacamole. Perfectly ripened avocados already have a slight smoky flavor, so chipotles complement them nicely. Chipotle butter: In a food processor, blend half a cup (one stick) butter, one teaspoon pureed chipotles, one teaspoon lime juice and one teaspoon minced cilantro. Use plastic wrap to form into a tube and refrigerate. Serve on corn on the cob and other vegetables. Garnish with gusto: Stir one tablespoon pureed chipotles and a squeeze of lime juice into one cup regular or reduced-fat sour cream. Use it to garnish tacos, enchiladas or taco salad. Frisky Caesar: Add one-half teaspoon chipotle puree to three-fourths cup of your favorite Caesar dressing. Toss with romaine, using only enough to lightly coat the leaves. Garnish with toasted sunflower or pumpkin seeds. Chipotle Baby Back Ribs Simmering the ribs in broth ensures tender, juicy meat. Afterward, chill the broth and remove the congealed fat; add chopped vegetables or wontons and you'll have a delectable soup. For the glaze: 1 to 2 tablespoons pureed chipotle chilies 3/4 cup orange juice 1/2 cup molasses 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar 1/2 cup hoisin sauce 1/2 cup reduced-sodium soy sauce 1 teaspoon salt For the ribs: 3 1/2 to 4 pounds pork baby back ribs, cut into 4-rib segments 2 to 3 quarts chicken broth 1/4 cup chopped cilantro 2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger 3 large cloves garlic, minced To finish: 2 tablespoons lime juice Lime slices to garnish In a medium bowl, combine all glaze ingredients; stir to blend. Set 1 cup of glaze aside to pass at the table. Place ribs in a large pot or Dutch oven; add enough chicken broth to barely cover (usually 2 quarts is enough). Add cilantro, ginger and garlic; bring to boil. Reduce heat to a gentle simmer; simmer 30 minutes or until meat is tender. Remove ribs and place on a jelly-roll pan; generously brush both sides with glaze. Heat grill to medium. Grill ribs, basting and turning often, until heated through, well glazed but not blackened, about 10 minutes. Add lime juice to the reserved glaze and heat. Place ribs on platter. Garnish with lime slices and sprigs of cilantro. Pass reserved glaze to spoon over ribs. Makes 6 to 8 servings. Per serving: 372 calories, 22.2 grams fat, 8 grams saturated fat, 86 milligrams cholesterol, 907 milligrams sodium, 54 percent calories from fat. Analysis by The Orange County Register. Orange and Chipotle-Marinated Fish Fillets Grated zest of 1 orange 1/3 cup fresh orange juice 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 chipotle chili in adobo sauce, minced 1 large clove garlic, peeled and minced 1 1/2 pounds snapper, flounder or other lean, white fish fillet, cut into 4 serving pieces 1/8 teaspoon salt Combine the orange peel, orange juice, lime juice, chili and garlic in glass pan. Add fish, cover and refrigerate 1 hour. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Discard marinade and arrange fish on baking sheet. Sprinkle lightly with salt and bake 10 minutes per inch of thickness, until just cooked through. Makes 4 servings. Per serving: 166 calories, 33.1 grams protein, 1.4 grams fat, 1 percent calories from fat, 3.4 grams carbohydrates, 210 milligrams sodium, 79 milligrams cholesterol. Analysis by The Seattle Times.