It depends on where you will be and how you plan to get around. (The roads are terrible, as we discovered.) In Montego Bay (where we stayed), they will send you to the Pork Pit for true jerk. It is not bad for a tourist place, but we found a great place on one of the traffic circles just West of town. It is a shack with a sign claiming "Boston-style" jerk. Go during the day. The food is great and cheap (although the price seems to be variable for us off-islanders). If you can get out East of Port Antonio, go to Boston Bay, where the definitive jerk comes from. (We never made it there.) In Negril, the Rock House restaurant is very good. Norma's in Kingston is reported to be good, but we found the one near Mo'bay to be boarded up. South of Mo'bay, on the Barnett Estate, is an upscale place called Belfield 1794 - it is an old sugar cane plantation. You need reservations - they only open at special times, but it is very good and a nice experience. You dine in the sugar mill, and can get a guided tour of the Greathouse. As for sights, visit the Rockland bird sanctuary Southwest of Mo'bay - you can have a large hummingbird eat while sitting on your finger. (Say hi to Fritz for us.) Past Ocho Rios is Firefly, Noel Coward's house - truly inspiring. And, for downright fun, climb the Dunn River Falls. Scott