It's been a while since I've been there, so I can only offer one piece of general advice -- lunch. Take lunch at some of the more upscale places. It's kinder on your budget, the food is still excellent, and you have a better chance of getting in to places that might otherwise be full. Other than that, my only other advice is go the Central Grocery, get a muffaletta, get a bottle of wine and find someplace to picnic (we did in the courtyard of our hotel). David "Zeb" Cook Retro Studios