RE: [CH] V7 #298 When to start seedlings?

Boulden, Randy (RBoulden@natco-us.com)
Thu, 8 Feb 2001 09:20:48 -0600

I have a similar setup.  Mine consists of 3 pieces of plywood 12 in. by 6
ft. each with a 4 ft. 2 bulb shop light attached to the center.  I  line up
sets of bricks 3 high and place the lights on the bricks.  The back of the
setup is against a wall.  The front has another piece of plywood to seal in
the warmth created by the lights.  I have done this 3 years in a row with
great success.  Very little to no damping off.  My Bird's Eye pepper seeds
came up after 4 days.  As the seedlings grow, use pieces of 1 x 4 to raise
the lights. 

> ----------
> From: 	Cameron Begg[SMTP:begg.4@osu.edu]
> Sent: 	Wednesday, February 07, 2001 7:51 AM
> To: 	chile-heads@globalgarden.com
> Subject: 	Re: [CH] V7 #298 When to start seedlings?
> 
> Hi CH's,
> 
> A few people seem concerned with this, so here are my thoughts from N.
> America.
> 
> 1 - You should not start seeds more than 6 weeks prior to the last 
> probable day for frost in your area if you plan to plant them 
> outside. Even then, the plants will not perform well until the soil 
> has warmed up.
> 
> 2 - If you are going to keep them in pots, at least until the soil is 
> warmed, you might think of starting the seeds a couple of weeks 
> earlier and shuttling them in and outside when the weather permits.
> 
> 3 - Sufficient indoor lighting is a consideration. The closer you can 
> get them to fluorescent light tubes for 12h per day the better. I use 
> a light fitting that takes four 4' tubes. It is raised on wood blocks 
> as the plants grow and the starter trays slide in and out for 
> watering. A mixture of warm white and cool white tubes is as good as 
> expensive "Growlux" tubes.
> 
> 4 - Use only water and a sterile seed starting mixture. Just cover 
> the seeds and water with a mister at first. Germination is much 
> improved and hastened by heating (pads) to up to 90degF. Do not apply 
> fertiliser of any type until the plants have at least one pair of 
> true leaves. (Not the cotyledons or "seed leaves" that come through 
> first.) Tomato fertilizer is fine for chiles. Use at the maximum 
> dilution in place of straight water.
> 
> 5 - Plants need to be blown around a bit to develop strong stems. If 
> you have your lights on a timer, consider hooking a fan in there too 
> to create a gentle breeze. Remember that this will greatly increase 
> water use.
> 
> 6 - Other stuff I've forgotten, but I'm sure the other CH's will 
> offer plenty of advice. Also check out the archives:
>              Back issues of the Digest are available at:
>          http://chileheads.netimages.com/archives.html
> 
> -- 
> ---
>                       Regards,               Cameron.
>