Hot Enough for You? © 2001 The Washington Post Company Wednesday, July 18, 2001; Page F04 Chili history was made in 1912 by chemist Wilbur L. Scoville, an employee of the Parke, Davis & Co. pharmaceutical company of Detroit, now part of Pfizer Pharmaceutical Group. While developing the company's muscle-ache balm Heet, Scoville produced the first process to rate the pungency of a chili pepper. His Scoville Organoleptic Test and resulting Scoville Index measure the level of the heat-producing chemical capsaicin in the flesh and seeds of the chili pepper. In a series of sense-stimulating sessions Scoville prepared doses of ground chili peppers for a physiological test using a five-member tasting panel. "The method I have used is as follows," Scoville wrote in a report published in the Journal of the American Pharmaceutical Association. "One grain of ground capsaicin is macerated overnight in 100 cc. of alcohol. After thorough shaking, filtered. This alcoholic solution is then added to sweetened water in definite proportions until a distinct but weak pungency is perceptible on the tongue." At completion, he assigned a Scoville unit number to each pepper variety, measured in multiples of 100. Today, High-Performance Liquid Chromatography more accurately tests chili pepper strength. But the results are still reported in Scoville units. On average, 1.5 Scoville units are equal to one part chili pepper plus 1 million drops of water. The word "average" is important. The pungency of chili peppers varies according to climate and growing conditions, including the type of soil in which the peppers are grown. The hottest part of any pepper is the spongy, white, interior veins and attached seeds. Pure capsaicin is rated at more than 15 million Scoville units. The Anaheim is generally the mildest chili pepper sold in supermarkets and the habanero is the hottest. Selecting Peppers Choose vibrantly colored peppers that are firm, without soft spots, and show no signs of withering. Most chili peppers may be placed on a paper towel in a plastic bag and refrigerated for up to one week. Preparing Peppers Handle hot chilies cautiously. Wear rubber gloves when cleaning and slicing them. Some cooks use a fork, rather than fingers, to steady the chili on the cutting board. Keep hands away from eyes. Thoroughly clean the knife, cutting board and hands with soapy water. The best remedy for the burning sensation that chilies can inflict after ingestion is not beer or ice water but dairy products such as milk and ice cream. The following chili peppers, listed in order from hot to mild, are available at most supermarkets. Habanero These small (about two inches long), lantern-shaped pods are near the top of the hot scale (200,000 to 325,000 Scoville units). Colors range from light green to orange to red when fully ripe. The flavor is tropical and fruity. Use cautiously in sauces, salsas and marinades. The habanero (ah-bah-NEH-roh) is a close cousin of the fire-alarm Scotch Bonnet (100,000 to 325,000 Scoville units). (Both pictured on Page 1.) Serrano These small, thin, pointed chili peppers (about 1 1/2 inches long) can pack a wallop (10,000 to 25,000 Scoville units). In area supermarkets serranos (seh-RRAH-nohs) are dark green. They ripen to a bright scarlet. The crisp, fresh flavor is perfect for a fortified guacamole, salsa or relish. Jalapeno This country's most popular chili pepper is medium-hot (3,500 to 5,000 Scoville units), deep green in color and two to three inches long and a half to one inch in diameter. The thick flesh has a fresh, distinctive flavor. Jalapenos (hah-lah-PEH-nyohs) are versatile, but pickles and salsa come to mind. A dried, smoked jalapeno is called a chipotle. Hungarian Wax A crisp, warm to moderately hot Hungarian (2,000 to 4,500 Scoville units) is three to five inches long and 1 1/2 inches in diameter and yellow in color. They are popular pickled or fresh in salads and in sauces. Hungarian Wax chilies are commonly mislabeled as far milder banana chilies. Long Hot Crinkled and often slightly curled, long hots, about seven inches long and 1 1/2 inches in diameter, are commonly grown on the East Coast. Depending on weather conditions, they can be warm to moderately hot (2,000 to 3,000 Scoville units). Use long hots in sauces, salsas and stews. (Pictured on Page 1.) Poblano The choice for chiles rellenos, the mild to moderate poblano (1,250 to 2,500 Scoville units) is deep, dark green and approximately 2 1/2 to three inches wide and four to five inches long. Roast and peel poblano peppers before stuffing. A dried poblano (poh-BLAH-noh) is called an ancho (AHN-cho). Poblano peppers are frequently mislabeled as pasilla (pah-SEE-yah) peppers in supermarkets. (Pictured on Page 1.) Anaheim The mild and sweet Anaheim (800 to 1,400 Scoville units) measures about seven inches long and two to three inches in diameter. These medium green chili peppers are usually roasted and peeled before being added to salsas and sauces or roasted on the grill. They are mild enough to add to fruit salads. Ripe, red Anaheim peppers are known as chili Colorado. For more information on the world of chili peppers and the people who love them go to www.fiery-foods.com. -- Walter Nicholls Carl Camper chateaustripmin@mcn.net