I've followed Linda's method for many years and haven't found germination at all inhibited the following year when planted. I put them into water, skim off the floaters and allow them to stay there for a few hours. I change the water after 24 hours, then drain it and any floaters and put the seeds on the bottom on a plate or aluminum foil to dry. I've never tried to bend any seeds, but you can tell from the looks whether they are dry or not. I store them in sandwich bags in a box with an accumulation of other seeds. I Barbara Davis zone 7/8 southwest of Fort Worth, TX >>Margaret Lauterbac wrote: <color><param>0000,0000,FF00</param>> > >I follow Suzanne Ashworth's instructions (from "Seed to Seed") and ferment > >tomato seeds for 4 or 5 days, then scrape off the mold and rinse seeds in a > >sieve. Pour seeds onto a plastic or china plate and set aside to dry in > >the china closet, where critters (including humans) are unlikely to spill > >them. ID them, of course. > >Tomatoes are the only thing I know of (haven't studied the whole book) you > >treat this way, and the reason is that jelly-like substance surrounding the > >seeds is a germination inhibitor. Fermentation destroys that capability. Margaret > > Thanks, Margaret, for the reply. I appreciate knowing another method. The > one thing that the fermentation process doesn't address is separating the > viable and nonviable seed. Supposedly, with the water method for 'mater > seed, only the viable seed sink. The method was in the Horticulture mag > several years ago. Maybe it doesn't matter for 'maters. > > Regarding peppers, I follow the method you describe above. The arthritis > in my hands limits my seed-bending (and other bending, as well) ability but > what I do seems to work. > > Also, thanks for the tip on the book! > > Linda in NW Ohio near Toledo/Lake Erie, USDA Zone 5 > llbs@mail.glasscity.net > >