> >Basils do prefer warmth, but, as Margaret wrote, nighttime temps >in the 50's should not kill plants that have been hardened off. >If they did it would be hard to grow basil at all here -- even >in the summer we get night temps below 60 at least occasionally. > >If the daytime temps never get above 60 that is another story. I >assume they do. > >Root rot can easily kill overwatered container plants and >Thomas DeBaggio and Susan Belsinger in their book "Basil: An Herb >Lovers Guide" mention several wilt diseases that basils can get: > >Erwinia, a bacterial disease, has symptoms that include premature >leaf drop, dark stem lesions and leaf spotting. > >Fusarium, different from but related to the tomato disease of the >same name, blocks the vascular system causing the plant to wilt >and die. It is can be transmitted by infected palnts, soil or >contaminated seeds. It is fairly new to the US. > >They do not mention cures for these diseases but suggest prevention >and/or starting over with fresh uncontaminated growing mediums. > >Peggy Sullivan, Zone 5, NE Pa. where its still to early to start >basil seedlings, although the pictures in DeBaggio and Belsinger's >book of an indoor basil garden (basil seedlings under lights >5-8 rows to a flat initally, thin and use the thinnings in salads, >but continue to grow intensively -- 1 or 2 plants per inch in the >rows, harvest regularly, cutting stems back to 4 leaves or so, >water and fertilize regularly, continue for 3 or 4 months until >the flat is totally root-bound, pitch it and start over... ) look >awfully good. > Now that you mention it, Peggy, fusarium could well be the problem. Richters is selling fusarium resistant basil, and I haven't seen any other source selling such seed. The fungus can contaminate the seed and the soil, the fungus apparently taking up residence in the soil. Margaret L