I am not clear regarding the technique. Did you put down thick blocks of hay over everything (beds & walkways)? How did you get water to the plants? My understanding is that you need at least 4-5 inches of mulch to keep the disease organisms in the soil. Is this how thick the blocks were? I am ready to try just about anything, including spraying (which I never thought I would ever do). BIll McKay>I did not use plastic mulch this year, but I tried Charles Wilber's hay book >mulch. He is the 83-year Alabaman who wrote the book, Growing Guinness >World Record Tomatoes. I interviewed him for an article on his method that >will appear in the Jan. 2000 issue of Old Farmer's Almanac's Gardener's >Companion. I was impressed by some of his ways. The man doesn't have a >great deal of education, and he doesn't know about soil biology. But, his >experience and a keen sense of observation have taught him lessons >scientists are only now understanding. He said that he lays his hay mulch >out in books (the sections off the bales) and butts them together, forming >a >solid, thick mat. I had always used hay as mulch, but I fluffed it up like >everyone else. The fluffy hay did a good job, but soil-borne disease still >splashed up on to the tomato leaves. > >Last spring I used Wilber's method of books that abutted. The soil was >cold, and we had a freeze after I planted. I wrapped the transplants with >newspaper, and they came through OK. I had absolutely NO disease on any of >my 8 heirloom varieties, despite close spacing and overcrowding due to >rampant vine growth. When I pulled up my vines about 2 weeks ago, I found >the hay half degraded, but still in a solid mat. The soil underneath was >very black and teaming with earthworms. From my 8 plants, I harvested over >500 pounds of fruit. >Doreen Howard > > > ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com