Re: [tomato] Tomato Digest V1 #149

Thomas J. Keehn (Tomato@GlobalGarden.com)
Mon, 01 Mar 1999 19:31:23 -0800

please discontinue sending me your newsletter, i am no longer interested in
receiving it.  THank you.  At 03:22 AM 2/19/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Tomato Digest        Friday, February 19 1999        Volume 01 : Number 149
>
>
>
>In this issue:
>
>       Re: [tomato] Plant in the same spot or not?
>       Re: [tomato] Plant in the same spot or not?
>       RE: [tomato] What to Grow in NY
>
>See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the tomato
>or tomato-digest mailing lists and on how to retrieve back issues.
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 07:32:33 -0700
>From: margaret lauterbach <mlaute@micron.net>
>Subject: Re: [tomato] Plant in the same spot or not?
>
>At 11:27 PM 2/17/99 EST, you wrote:
>>I just joined this list last week.  I'd like your opinion(s) before planting
>>time gets here.  Do you rotate the location where you plant tomatoes from
one
>>year to the next?
>>
>>I've been growing tomatoes for about 10 years.  I have always heard that I
>>should rotate where the tomatoes are grown each year to help prevent soil
>>borne diseases.  Last year, on a different maillist, many people said that
>>rotating tomatoes isn't necessary.  If I remember correctly, two of their
>>reasons were 1) healthy plants could  handle typical soil borne diseases
>>fairly well, and 2) soil high in organic material would supress those
>>diseases.
>>
>>Last year (for the first time), I planted my tomatoes in the same spot as
the
>>previous year's tomatoes.  I didn't have any major problems, nor did I
have a
>>great year.  I'm debating whether to continue rotating or not.
>>
>>Thanks for your opinions
>>Tom
>>
>I've been told by our Extension agent that she saw research that reported
>tomatoes prepare the ground for more tomatoes.  She can't recall the
>source.  I've grown tomatoes in the same patch since 1972 except for one
>year when I planted them elsewhere.  That year I lost 50% of my plants to
>disease.  I decided not to rotate tomatoes any more, especially since I had
>had no disease problems in the original patch.  The weather in most of the
>country last year was not very conducive to growing tomatoes.  Best,
>Margaret
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 08:39:31 -0800 (PST)
>From: ryarnell@orednet.org (Richard Yarnell)
>Subject: Re: [tomato] Plant in the same spot or not?
>
>Here is a decidedly unscientific response: 
>
>We leased some land in Southern Cal to a family which first raised
>strawberries and then tomatoes on it.  Subsequently, we planted Avocados
>on the same land.  We traced the problems which ultimately led to taking
>that parcel out of the Avocado orchard to the tomatoes.  
>
>If memory serves, and it must go back to the 50's, we concluded that,
>unless you rotate crops in the same family (eg. potatoes) on less than a 3
>or four year schedule, or if you are working in marginal soil, the
>problems will not be severe.  However, if you have blight or any number of
>other persistent diseases, even heavy composting will not cure the problem.
>If you have the room, establish a rotation and stick to it. With the
>spread of late blight, I think it's doubly important to keep the reservoir
>of infectious diseases at a minimum.
>
>On a related topic, we suggest that you not compost potatoes, potato
>plants, tomatoes or other related plants even if you use a rapid compost
>regimen.  On a small scale, there are always margins of a composting mass
>which don't reach or hold "high" temperatures long enough.
>
>RY
>
>>At 11:27 PM 2/17/99 EST, you wrote:
>
>>>Do you rotate the location where you plant tomatoes from one
>>>year to the next?
>
>>>I've been growing tomatoes for about 10 years.  I have always heard that I
>>>should rotate where the tomatoes are grown each year to help prevent soil
>>>borne diseases.  Last year, on a different maillist, many people said that
>>>rotating tomatoes isn't necessary.  If I remember correctly, two of their
>>>reasons were 1) healthy plants could  handle typical soil borne diseases
>>>fairly well, and 2) soil high in organic material would supress those
>>>diseases.
>
>- ---------------
>Richard Yarnell, SHAMBLES WORKSHOPS | No gimmick we try, no "scientific"
>Beavercreek, OR. Makers of fine     | fix we attempt, will save our planet
>Wooden Canoes, The Stack(R) urban   | until we reduce the population. Let's
>composter, fly tying benches        | leave our kids a decent place to live.
>
>- --
> 
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 16:29:59 -0500
>From: "Byron.Bromley" <Byron.Bromley@gsd-co.com>
>Subject: RE: [tomato] What to Grow in NY
>
>I live in Sourthern NH about 200 mi east of you.
>I select a 90 day to maturity variety, I start about 12 weeks early
>so I have a 12 to 16 in plant in a 4x6in pot (Mostly newspaper)
>to reduce root trauma at transplanting.
>
>You live in Zone 4 Last typical frost May 20th and first
>normal ?? is Sept 10. Normal plant out is Memorial Day
>And start thinking about frost covers on Labor Day
>
>For paste tomatoes try the Amish Paste, lot more flavor
>and larger. Needs staking for 6ft plant, and a lot of sucker
>growth
>
>Byron
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of Tomato Digest V1 #149
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