This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_006E_01BFFBEE.9CFD56E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Help.Help.Help.Help ----- Original Message -----=20 From: "Ralph Therien" <rtherien@home.com> To: <Tomato@GlobalGarden.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 4:20 PM Subject: RE: [tomato] Fw:=20 > Me too, for God's sakes ! >=20 > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-tomato@GlobalGarden.com > [mailto:owner-tomato@GlobalGarden.com]On Behalf Of John Sorge > Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 10:45 PM > To: Tomato@GlobalGarden.com > Subject: Re: [tomato] Fw: >=20 >=20 > Please, please will anyone tell me how to get off this email list? >=20 > John Sorge > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Betsy Lasarow Tozzi" <tozzi@alaska.net> > To: <Tomato@GlobalGarden.com> > Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 3:57 AM > Subject: Re: [tomato] Fw: >=20 >=20 > > Bob, > > > > Why are you doing 15 minute waterings instead of watering "all at = once"? > > Although there is an allure to the idea that the controller *can* do = that, > > I think it might actually be better to water in a single pass. If = this > > quantity of water regularly exceeds the capacity for the pot, it = would > > make sense to cut back a bit, although I generally prefer to water = to the > > point of run-out from container-grown tomatoes. What has me = concerned is > > the wilting you experienced when you cut back on the watering = before. > > That suggests that the plant's vascular system is pretty fragile. > > > > Also, I'd err above 1" per week in a container growing environment; = you > > may want to evaluate the actual qty of water delivered... drip = systems > > deliver a lot right below the drippers, but you want to make sure = you're > > getting good coverage to all the edges of the pot (i.e., sides & = bottom). > > > > We're guessing that you're growing outside. If you're growing = inside a > > greenhouse, as we do with most of our varieties, there are a few = other > > things I'd suggest for container growing. > > > > Since you're using mycorrhizal inoculum, have you adjusted your = nutrients > > accordingly? I think you're on the right track mulching the plants, > > although I remember hearing something (surprising) suggesting that = bark > > mulches can be more harm than help. It was discussed in my Master > > Gardener group, so I'll see if I can get a bit more info on that. > > > > I'm hoping that your earlier watering will help reduce stress on = your > > plants and get up cranking out tomatoes for you. Meanwhile, keep on > > growing and let us know how you're doing! > > > > Betsy > > Fairbanks, Alaska > > > > On Tue, 1 Aug 2000, Bob Addison wrote: > > > >From Bob Addison > > > addison@terrapin-net.com > > > > > > A follow-up my query about timing on a drip system; > > > (Should have said 10 min out of every hr. from 11;am > > > TO 4:10 pm [six waterings] total of 60 min.) > > > > > > Just went out and re-checked the flow-rate into one of > > > my tomato pots. > > > > > > Caught 6 OZ of water in 10 Minutes. > > > =3D36 OZ /hr. or 65 cu. in./hr > > > 1" in a 15" pot is equal to 176 cu. in. (71% of a gallon) > > > This makes 65 cu.in. 37% of a weeks quota. > > > (231 cu. in.=3D 1 gallon) > > > Water starts running out of the bottom about the fourth > > > ten minute feeding. > > > > > > Of course if it rains I turn it off for a day and if it is a > > > hard rain I'll leave off longer. > > > > > > Have about 1" of Cyprus bark mulch on top of the soil and > > > use mycorrhizal fungi. > > > > > > Upon Betsy's recommendation I'm changing my watering times > > > to 15 min @ 7:AM, 15 min @ 8:AM, 15 min @,9:AM and 15 > > > min @ 10:AM > > > Bob > > > > > > > >=20 >=20 ------=_NextPart_000_006E_01BFFBEE.9CFD56E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">