Re: [gardeners] To Do in August

Bargyla Rateaver (
Mon, 06 Aug 2001 21:14:29 +0100

yes, seaweed is what I have promoted so hard for so many decades. Can't
beat it. That's why I reprinted the book: Seaweed in Agriculture and
Horticulture. make you local library buy,it $35, so everyone can read it.
Well, not exactly. Usually the first person who takes it out steals it.
Just make sure YOU are the first one to check it out ! wrote:

> This was copied from John Dromgoole's Gardening newsletter. He
> owns a large organic garden center in Austin Texas. If they think
> we can put seed in the ground in august in TX, surely you can too!
> I have a hard time believing lettuce and the cole crops can be set
> out this month, but it might be worth a shot! (Martha)
> ****************************************
> We are still in our least productive season for planting
> landscape
> plants here in Central Texas.  It is still a good idea to let
> the
> landscape rest, and make the best of the heat while you
> plan for the
> fall gardening season.  The exception is the vegetable
> garden,
> where
> it is your last chance to plant certain veggie seeds and
> plants.
> Plant Vegetable Seeds:  Beans, Corn, Cucumber,
> Garlic, *Okra,
> *Black-eyed Peas, Potatoes, Shallot, *New Zealand and
> Malabar Spinach,
> Summer Squash, *Winter Squash
> Plant Vegetable Seeds in Pots or Flats:  (Keep these
> “cool.”  Give
> them bright sun, but perhaps some shade from the
> hottest afternoon
> sun, or an “awning” made of 30% shade cloth.)  Broccoli,
> Brussels
> Sprouts, Cauliflower, Chard, Chinese Cabbage,
> Collards*, Endive*,
> Fennel, Kale, Head and Leaf Lettuce*, Mustard*,
> *Rutabaga
> Plant Vegetable Plants:  Okra, New Zealand or Malabar
> Spinach, Summer
> or Winter Squash
> Plant Herb Plants:  Mint Marigold, Mints, Oregano,
> Rosemary, Sage,
> Wormwood (Artemesia)
> Plant Annual Flower/Ornamental Plants:  Blue Daze,
> Celosias (Cockscomb
> or Plume), Zinnia
> Plant Perennial Plants:  Ornamental Grasses, Sedum
> (An asterisk (*) before the entry indicates it is best
> planted the
> first half of the month; an asterisk after the entry shows it
> is best
> planted the second half).
> Water deeply.  Concentrate on trees, newly planted and
> established
> ones.  Unless we get regular 3” rains until fall (!), trees
> will need
> special watering care to make it through the summer
> without damage.
> As John Dromgoole says, “A one-inch rain is only
> enough to wash the
> dust off the trees.”  Place a bubbler, a small sprinkler, or
> a soaker
> hose around trees, and water for several hours with a
> low flow of
> water.  Any time you water, use only sprinklers that spray
> the least
> amount of water into the air, where it is lost to
> evaporation.  Water
> early in the morning or late in the evening for the same
> reason.  In
> addition, the more water on the leaves, the greater the
> chances of
> fungal problems on the leaves.  Even plain water on the
> leaves while
> the sun is out can also burn the leaves. Newly planted
> trees and
> shrubs need more frequent watering their first two years.
>  Depending
> on your soil and weather conditions, you may need to
> water trees
> weekly or every other week.  Rocky, Hill Country soil will
> dry out
> much faster than clayey Blackland Prairie soil.  Your finger is your
> best moisture meter:  dig down as deeply as you can to feel the soil
> around the roots before watering.  If you find that water runs off of
> the soil easily, and doesn’t percolate well, use Medina Soil
> Activator, or Lady Bug Terra Tonic (which contains Soil Activator).
> These products help the soil to be more permeable, among other
> benefits.  And don’t forget the shrubs - they need attention, too.
> Consider investing in soaker hoses and/or a drip system.  These
> watering systems put the water right where it’s needed – in the soil –
> rather than wasting the water into the air.  Of course, this saves on
> the water bill, too, and again - reduces the chances of diseases on
> the plants.    While soaker hoses are easier to install in the garden
> or landscape, a well-designed drip system can last much longer.  Ask
> your favorite nursery or irrigation company for more information.
> Mulch, mulch, mulch!  If you haven’t done so already, be
> sure all bare
> soil is covered with mulch, or compost, then mulch.
> Avoid piling
> mulch or compost onto plant stems, and use about three
> inches wherever
> possible.
> Continue spraying all plants with seaweed regularly.
> Seaweed, with
> all its trace elements and hormones, can do more to
> help plants
> survive the heat than anything else, besides water and
> mulch.  Spray
> on and under the leaves, early morning or late evening.
> (Thanks to Howard Garrett’s Texas Organic Gardening
> Book and the
> Travis County Master Gardener Association’s Garden
> Guide for Austin
> and Vicinity for some of this month’s tips).


Bargyla Rateaver