yes, seaweed is what I have promoted so hard for so many decades. Can't beat it. That's why I reprinted the book: Seaweed in Agriculture and Horticulture. make you local library buy,it $35, so everyone can read it. Well, not exactly. Usually the first person who takes it out steals it. Just make sure YOU are the first one to check it out ! flylo@txcyber.com wrote: > This was copied from John Dromgoole's Gardening newsletter. He > owns a large organic garden center in Austin Texas. If they think > we can put seed in the ground in august in TX, surely you can too! > I have a hard time believing lettuce and the cole crops can be set > out this month, but it might be worth a shot! (Martha) > **************************************** > WHAT TO DO IN AUGUST > > We are still in our least productive season for planting > landscape > plants here in Central Texas. It is still a good idea to let > the > landscape rest, and make the best of the heat while you > plan for the > fall gardening season. The exception is the vegetable > garden, > where > it is your last chance to plant certain veggie seeds and > plants. > > Plant Vegetable Seeds: Beans, Corn, Cucumber, > Garlic, *Okra, > *Black-eyed Peas, Potatoes, Shallot, *New Zealand and > Malabar Spinach, > Summer Squash, *Winter Squash > > Plant Vegetable Seeds in Pots or Flats: (Keep these > “cool.” Give > them bright sun, but perhaps some shade from the > hottest afternoon > sun, or an “awning” made of 30% shade cloth.) Broccoli, > Brussels > Sprouts, Cauliflower, Chard, Chinese Cabbage, > Collards*, Endive*, > Fennel, Kale, Head and Leaf Lettuce*, Mustard*, > *Rutabaga > > Plant Vegetable Plants: Okra, New Zealand or Malabar > Spinach, Summer > or Winter Squash > > Plant Herb Plants: Mint Marigold, Mints, Oregano, > Rosemary, Sage, > Wormwood (Artemesia) > > Plant Annual Flower/Ornamental Plants: Blue Daze, > Celosias (Cockscomb > or Plume), Zinnia > > Plant Perennial Plants: Ornamental Grasses, Sedum > > (An asterisk (*) before the entry indicates it is best > planted the > first half of the month; an asterisk after the entry shows it > is best > planted the second half). > > Water deeply. Concentrate on trees, newly planted and > established > ones. Unless we get regular 3” rains until fall (!), trees > will need > special watering care to make it through the summer > without damage. > As John Dromgoole says, “A one-inch rain is only > enough to wash the > dust off the trees.” Place a bubbler, a small sprinkler, or > a soaker > hose around trees, and water for several hours with a > low flow of > water. Any time you water, use only sprinklers that spray > the least > amount of water into the air, where it is lost to > evaporation. Water > early in the morning or late in the evening for the same > reason. In > addition, the more water on the leaves, the greater the > chances of > fungal problems on the leaves. Even plain water on the > leaves while > the sun is out can also burn the leaves. Newly planted > trees and > shrubs need more frequent watering their first two years. > Depending > on your soil and weather conditions, you may need to > water trees > weekly or every other week. Rocky, Hill Country soil will > dry out > much faster than clayey Blackland Prairie soil. Your finger is your > best moisture meter: dig down as deeply as you can to feel the soil > around the roots before watering. If you find that water runs off of > the soil easily, and doesn’t percolate well, use Medina Soil > Activator, or Lady Bug Terra Tonic (which contains Soil Activator). > These products help the soil to be more permeable, among other > benefits. And don’t forget the shrubs - they need attention, too. > > Consider investing in soaker hoses and/or a drip system. These > watering systems put the water right where it’s needed – in the soil – > rather than wasting the water into the air. Of course, this saves on > the water bill, too, and again - reduces the chances of diseases on > the plants. While soaker hoses are easier to install in the garden > or landscape, a well-designed drip system can last much longer. Ask > your favorite nursery or irrigation company for more information. > > Mulch, mulch, mulch! If you haven’t done so already, be > sure all bare > soil is covered with mulch, or compost, then mulch. > Avoid piling > mulch or compost onto plant stems, and use about three > inches wherever > possible. > > Continue spraying all plants with seaweed regularly. > Seaweed, with > all its trace elements and hormones, can do more to > help plants > survive the heat than anything else, besides water and > mulch. Spray > on and under the leaves, early morning or late evening. > > (Thanks to Howard Garrett’s Texas Organic Gardening > Book and the > Travis County Master Gardener Association’s Garden > Guide for Austin > and Vicinity for some of this month’s tips). -- Bargyla Rateaver http://home.earthlink.net/~brateaver