Reading all the different opinions (my own included) about whether or not to prune tomato plants reminds me just how easy it is for any of us to unwittingly totally confuse a new (or experienced!) gardener who is looking to the list for The Answer. There is no single answer, no single "right" way to grow tomatoes (or any other plant). Any expert worth his or her salt will say, "I can give you some general principles, but I can't tell you how to grow a tomato in YOUR soil, YOUR climate, YOUR space limitations. I can only tell you what works for me. Then you must filter that information through your own experience and growing conditions and find YOUR 'right' way." When I post that I will sometimes "top out" and/or prune an INDETERMINATE variety of tomato plant (these are two distinct operations with very different intents and effects),it's because experience has shown me that both topping out and pruning/thinning is beneficial under my growing conditions. North Georgia gets hot and humid in the summer; maintaining good air circulation around tomato plants is crucial. Pruning (selectively removing some of the new growth that develops in the axil of the vine) increases air circulation. This type of pruning also helps keep the plant from growing out of bounds. I normally plant my tomatoes on 2.5' to 3' centers. This spacing demands some pruning to keep the plants from growing into each other. A jungle is not what I'm looking for in terms of either appearance or plant health! I try and grow between 75-100 varieties of tomatoes each year...that means a fair number of plants in a fairly restricted area. Plant health and preventing disease is a HIGH priority with me, so the extra time it takes to remove the nubbins of new growth when they make their first appearance in the axils is well worth it....under *my* growing conditions. Another example, sunburned tomatoes aren't an issue for me in Georgia. Sunburn is an issue in my Texas garden. I don't normally train tomato plants to a single leader but if I did, it would be a challenge to prevent sunburn in the Texas garden. (Too, like many growers, I think flavor suffers if you reduce the leaf mass too much due to the ways tomatoes ripen and develop their flavor.) On the other hand, a grower I work with in New Hampshire laughs at the very notion of sunburn. He grows his tomatoes on 18" centers and trains them to a single leader without needing to worry about sunburn. He also has grown many, many varieties of open pollinated and heirloom tomatoes in containers successfully. Fact is, not everybody has the garden space (and/or the sun or soil quality!) to grow tomatoes in the ground. Container grown tomatoes make a lot of sense of many reasons, and they sure beat no tomatoes! The point? What works in Texas....Georgia....New Hampshire....etc., will always vary. None of us on this list are growing tomatoes in their native habitat of Central and South America. Over the years tomatoes have adapted (and we have adapated them, as well) to the requirements of our particular geographic areas and planting conditions. Some tomatoes do better in different areas of the country: some can take temperature extremes; others fizzle in tough environments. The gorgeous beefsteaks that thrive in New Jersey most often make a poor show in South Texas or Florida. And so on and so on. It's about active adaptation and individual answers. This is a long post, and I apologize for running on at the mouth. I wrote because I think it's important for each of us to remind ourselves that none of us possess The Answers. Every garden and gardener offers a unique set of conditions. What all of us can do is help each other notice and learn from his or her own conditions. That's what makes gardening satisfying--an art form instead of a production process. Catharine/Atlanta, zone 7b cvinson@mindspring.com