. When the geese come barreling across the November sky with their raucous honking, they bring with them bitter-sweet memories of my childhood holidays. I step back in time to the days when, over sixty years ago, as the eldest grandchild I would join the whole family for the double celebration of Thanksgiving Day and my grandparents' wedding anniversary. I remember how excited I would be when we arrived at Grandma's big apartment on West End Avenue where my dad had grown up. The weather would be windy and cold, but I would be warm in a slate-blue woolen coat and leggings and a hat tied under the chin. Underneath I'd be wearing a burgundy velveteen party dress with a line of buttons down the front, white lisle stockings to the knee, and my shiny black patent leather shoes which fastened with a button hook. Best of all, I carried a white fur muff. I was sure Grandma Sarah must have always had white hair and rosy cheeks, and I thought she was the greatest cook in the world. She never served us liver and tongue and succotash, like my mom. No, she set a table with everyone's favorites. My dad wouldn't eat cauliflower, so he got peas, and Uncle Harry craved raw sauerkraut, so a big, luscious bowlful would be placed on the table. There'd be a platter of potted meatballs, juicy and fragrant delectables which I adored. And there were parsley new potatoes for Uncle Harold's delicate digestion. I would help myself to a slice of fresh sour rye bread, and breaking off a corner as I knew my dad would want me to do, I'd spread it with a little bit of sweet butter and pop it into my mouth. Aunt Helen sat next to me and she always made sure I could reach the dishes that I loved the best. I can see Grandma fussing in the kitchen, stirring the food in the big pots with a long-handled spoon, and telling the cook, for the hundredth time, what to do next. And then the crowning touch of the day, the enormous stiff-chested turkey would be carried in, along with the dish of fragrant stuffing and the gravy boat. Aunt Bea would always be saying, "Now, Momma, sit down and stop working so hard!" Funny how children never misbehaved at Grandma's house. After dinner, Grandpa Mike would lead us to the parlor and, sitting down in his winged-back chair, he would light up his big cigar. Uncle Harry, the slight-of-hand artist, would ask someone for a penny, and then slide it through his fingers as if it were led by a string. I remember begging him to do it "just once more!" so I could master the trick, and he would chuckle and send the penny off again. Or he'd pull a paper match stick out of my ear, and I'd be delighted. Someone would always prompt Uncle Gus to name the capitals of all the 48 states, and he would rattle them off while we children counted on our fingers. His was another kind of magic, being a walking encyclopedia, and I promised myself that when I grew up, right after I had learned the Morse Code, I would memorize the capitals of all those United States. My little cousin Enid usually got the floor next, to recite some poem she had memorized for the occasion, and her brother, Little Harry, always seemed to need to go to the bathroom at that time. We girls all thought that it must be because he was a boy. Then someone would put a Caruso record on the gramophone, and everyone would sit quietly and listen to a strange voice which seemed to come out of a tin can. How lucky Grandma and Grandpa were to have such a miraculous machine! Surely Thanksgiving Day meant food and family and happiness to me... But the time came when the growing family made the big table far too crowded. My little sister June and cousin Judy demanded places of their own, with a fork and a spoon and a tumbler, too, just like the grownups. So Grandma Sarah set up a bridge table for the children, and we were banished from the world of the adults. Grandma tried psychology to keep me from pouting: I would be "in charge" of the little ones, and could set a good example, but it didn't work. I kept looking longingly at the big table, for I hated the bridge table with passion, and I swore to the secret God who heard my prayers at night that when I grew up, there would never be a bridge table at my holiday dinners. For several years after this, my holiday pleasure was dampened. The meatballs tasted just as good as I always remembered them, but my lower standing in the family was a difficult cross to bear. Yet the day did finally arrive when another cousin was to sit in my place, and they made room for me back with the grownups. A whole brass band couldn't have created more excitement in my heart as I marched the younger ones around the room and right into their seats at the bridge table. I helped each one up onto a chair, and then carefully pushed them in, for after all, now I was in a different world from them. I remember walking with dignity to my place next to Uncle Harry and the sauerkraut, and nobody knew I was already saying my prayers for the day, and thanking Someone for remembering that I wanted this more than anything else on earth that a nine-year-old could ask for. Penny Stamm, NY