Invest in a drip irrigation system for your garden. Apply water frequently, preferably under, a layer of mulch. (Even if you don't mulch though, the water, applied directly to each plant, will soak in and form a tear drop shaped moist area which will define the root ball.) I would suggest keeping your grey water applications to your flowering and ornamental plants. And since you need to have 15-25# pressure, it will not (and shouldn't be) in your drip system. A timer and six electric valves will cost you less than $100. Bowsmith emitters come as a gang of six from which 1/4" tubing can be led to as many plants. They are a very flexible way to install a system. For densely planted rows, your soaker hose (definitely placed under mulch or plastic) and run at low pressure so there is no "fountain" is a good solution. Our water use, using an automated drip system over a well managed overhead sprinkler system run only at night, dropped 80%. In addition, most harvest time fruit loss disappeared. >Our biggest problem with the heat is watering......not being able to >keep enough water on the plants because of the heat (it evaporates very >very quickly).....In addition, our water district imposes large fines if >you go over the minimum amounts (they double your bill...)...So! Year >before last hubby ran the lines from my washer dump water (blue water) >to the garden.....All of that goes into the garden and we are >considering venting other 'blue water' to the garden. We also bought >soaker hoses just in case we need to water extra. --------------- Richard Yarnell, SHAMBLES WORKSHOPS | No gimmick we try, no "scientific" Beavercreek, OR. Makers of fine | fix we attempt, will save our planet Wooden Canoes, The Stack(R) urban | until we reduce the population. Let's composter, fly tying benches | leave our kids a decent place to live. --